Saint-Malo
Nestled along the English Channel, on the right bank of the Rance River estuary, lies the captivating seaport of Saint-Malo. This historic city, located in the Ille-et-Vilaine département of Brittany région in northwestern France, boasts a rich maritime heritage and a stunning walled old town. Join me as we embark on a virtual journey to discover the allure of Saint-Malo and its surrounding wonders.
Saint-Malo owes its name to Maclou, or Malo, a Welsh monk who sought refuge in Brittany during the 6th century. Establishing his headquarters on the granite islet, the city’s history began to unfold. Originally sparsely inhabited, Saint-Malo’s population grew in the 8th century as people sought shelter from the Normans. The island became the seat of the bishopric in 1144 until its abolishment in 1790. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the city thrived through its navigators, traders, and privateers, enjoying prosperity and acclaim.
Despite the devastation it suffered during World War II (“All the light we cannot see” film, portraits this very well), Saint-Malo has risen from the ashes, showcasing its indomitable spirit. The fortress at the northeast corner of the ramparts, constructed between the 14th and 17th centuries, stands as a testament to the city’s resilience. Today, it houses a remarkable museum devoted to famous mariners who were born in Saint-Malo, including the renowned French navigator Jacques Cartier. The restoration of the 12th–17th-century Saint-Vincent Cathedral, damaged during the war, further preserves the city’s architectural heritage.
Saint-Malo’s port is the pulse of the city, with a bustling yachting harbor and a range of activities connected to its maritime legacy. Freight and passenger ferries offer convenient connections to England, Ireland, and the Channel Islands, fostering a sense of international connectivity. The city’s industries, including food processing (shellfish), shipbuilding, and the manufacturing of machinery and chemicals, contribute to its economic vitality. Notably, Saint-Malo proudly boasts the world’s first large-scale tidal plant, harnessing the power of flood and ebb tides to generate electricity since 1967.
As you step into the enchanting world of Saint-Malo’s old town, known as “Intra Muros,” you’ll be captivated by its striking granite structures and its unwavering gaze towards the sea. Wander through narrow streets, starting from Rue de l’Orme, and immerse yourself in the architectural gems and delightful shops that line the cobbled paths. Take a moment to indulge in a treat at Place Chateaubriand, savoring the atmosphere of this historic city.
While Saint-Malo’s old town is undeniably charming, the city has much more to offer beyond its fortified walls. Embrace the invigorating sea air as you explore miles of fine sandy beaches and the scenic coastal footpath that leads towards Cap Fréhel, along the Emerald Coast. Journey along the Alet trail, passing by the Solidor Tower and the vibrant Saint-Servan district, to fully appreciate the city’s coastal beauty. Along the way, you’ll encounter captivating street art that adds a touch of vibrancy to the port. For a change of scenery, hop on a bike and ride to the tip of Rotheneuf, where sculptured rocks await, showcasing land art ahead of its time. Alternatively, a short boat ride across the River Rance will transport you to the charming town of Dinard in just 10 minutes.
How to get there
- You can travel to Saint-Malo by car, plane, train or ferry. If you wish to travel by plane, the main airport serving the city is the Dinard–Pleurtuit–Saint-Malo Airport, which is located just a 25 minute drive from the city center.
- There are 3 direct trains from Paris to Saint-Malo each day.
- The Brittany Ferries Portsmouth to Saint-Malo ferry is a popular choice for a relaxing cruise sailing direct into Brittany. Portsmouth to Saint-Malo sailings take around 10 to 12 hours overnight so there’s plenty of time to: rest in a luxury two or four berth cabin or access their programme of Children’s entertainment.
Things to do
Etonnants Voyageurs
(Amazing Travellers)
Saint-Malo: 18 to 20 May 2024
Each May, the Étonnants Voyageurs festival in Saint-Malo welcomes 250 authors from around the world, drawing 60,000 visitors for three days of literary events. Established in 1990, the festival features renowned writers like Jim Harrison and J.M.G. Le Clézio. It also awards prestigious literary prizes like the Joseph-Kessel and Grand prix de l’Imaginaire awards, celebrating exceptional works. The festival includes engaging encounters, debates, film screenings, exhibitions, and a vibrant book fair where readers can meet authors and get books signed.
The ‘Galeon Andalucia’ is a faithful replica of 16th-century Spanish galleons that established sea routes between Spain, America, and the Philippine Islands. It serves as a floating museum, showcasing maritime history across its 5 decks. The ship features 3 masts, 7 sails, 6 visiting decks, and impressive dimensions. Tickets can be reserved for guided tours and sailing experiences. For reservations, email ecampos@velacuadra.es or visit www.tallshipexperince.com. Tickets are available on the boat and online to avoid long waits.
Restaurants & Bars
Bergamote
A five-star restaurant serving traditional and local cuisine, including galettes, omelettes, veggie quiche, salads with local vegetables, and French pastries for dessert. All dishes are homemade. The restaurant is dog-friendly, attentive, and offers a comfortable atmosphere. They cater to vegetarians, vegans, and those with gluten-free dietary needs. Prices range from £9 to £17.
Cargo Culte
Perfect experience at this gem of a cafe/bistro with great food and atmosphere. Everyone dining feels like a valued customer in this quirky and unpretentious spot. Excellent quality food, friendly staff, and a good neighborhood vibe. The bistro offers artsy, cultured, and relaxed ambiance with fabulous French, Fusion, European, Healthy cuisine. Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options available. Prices range from £5 to £13.
If you’re near Demeure de Corsaire, visit La Fabrique for perfectly cooked filet américain and good parfait. This hipster bar offers a cozy atmosphere, welcoming service, and a nice decor. Guests can relax and enjoy delicious whiskey, gin, or beer. The staff is considered creative, providing enjoyable service. La Fabrique has a Google rating of 4.5 based on guest reviews.
